November 24, 2020

Jed Portman

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Editor’s Letter: How to Make a Black Walnut Cake

A new holiday classic that showcases a native nut

Midwestern luxury tastes like morel mushrooms in the spring, sweet corn in the summer, and black walnuts in the fall. You may be able to fill buckets with black walnuts, but getting to the nutmeat inside takes the kind of painstaking work that justifies high-end pricing. Processing walnuts is a pursuit for our time. It’s meditative and rewarding. In a moment when opportunity can feel out of reach, our walnut promises that, with elbow grease and commitment, you, too, can wring value from the refuse on the sidewalk.

Unfortunately, if you haven’t already collected this year’s walnuts, you’re too late. The season is over. The good news: Even out of season, the black walnut is an accessible luxury. You can buy wild-harvested Midwestern black walnuts online or at many supermarkets, thanks to the processors at Stockton, Missouri’s Hammons Black Walnuts.

Editor’s Letter: How to Make a Black Walnut Cake - Quote

In a moment when opportunity can feel out of reach, our walnut promises that, with elbow grease and commitment, you, too, can wring value from the refuse on the sidewalk.

So you can still put a black walnut cake on the table this holiday season. My favorite recipe comes from outside our native walnut’s range—from the late McCrady’s Tavern in Charleston, South Carolina. The mind behind it, though, is Midwestern. Chef Katy Powers grew up in Wisconsin. She got her start at bakeries in Milwaukee, then earned a degree at the Culinary Institute of America and made her name at Lincoln Ristorante in New York before moving to South Carolina to work with the Neighborhood Dining Group. Today, she’s the restaurant group’s Culinary Liaison.

Back at McCrady’s, she was working under the famed chef Sean Brock—a black walnut booster himself, who put Appalachian recipes for black walnut pound cake and his grandmother’s “hillbilly black walnut fudge” in his first book, Heritage. Inspired by conversations with Brock, Powers came up with a black walnut cake that paid tribute to Appalachia. When I first tried it in 2016, I thought it tasted like the Midwest.

After all, I’ve been able to source the key ingredients near home this fall: walnuts that I gathered in five-gallon buckets, apple butter from a nearby farm. In place of vanilla, I use black walnut nocino, which imparts a more complex flavor, with vanilla notes, to the cake and frosting. In one recipe test, I even used homemade maple syrup in place of granulated sugar. It works. Just use a little bit less maple—say, a cup and a half.

This is a home-cook-friendly riff on a fine-dining recipe. We cut three layers down to two. Powers suggested replacing her buttercream with homey cream cheese frosting, and the fig white chocolate mousse between the layers with more apple butter. “Apple butter is acidic and complex, pairing well with the uniqueness of black walnut,” she says. “Cream cheese frosting is rich and creamy, complementing the nut’s sometimes cheesy notes. All three components of the cake have different textures, so it makes the cake fun to eat from a textural standpoint, also.”

We could all use a soulful taste of place during this close-to-home holiday season. This cake strikes the right balance: ambitious and easy to make, rustic and refined, luxurious and down-to-earth. We’ll be enjoying it on Thanksgiving.

Katy Powers’s Black Walnut Cake

Serves 12-16

This cake, like most baked goods, will turn out better if you weigh your ingredients. I’ve provided both weight and volume measures below, but I highly recommend buying a kitchen scale if you don’t have one.

Ingredients

Cake
480 g (3 ½ cups) all-purpose flour
160 g (1 heaping cup) pulverized black walnuts
1 heaping tbsp. baking powder
1 heaping tsp. baking soda
Generous pinch kosher salt
220 g (1 cup, 2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
400 g (2 cups) granulated sugar
Scrapings from 1 vanilla bean, 1 tsp. vanilla extract, or a splash of nocino
4 eggs
1 ¼ cups apple butter

Frosting and assembly
220 g (1 cup, 2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
16 oz. (2 standard 8-oz. packages) cream cheese, at room temperature
2 tbsp. milk, plus more as needed
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
Scrapings from 1 vanilla bean, 1 tsp. vanilla extract, or a splash of nocino
Pinch kosher salt
1 cup apple butter
2 cups toasted black walnuts, to coat

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place a rack in the center. Butter and line the bottoms of two 9-inch round cake pans with parchment paper. Butter the parchment.

Combine all dry ingredients except sugar—from flour to salt—in a large bowl and mix.

In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter and sugar on medium-high until light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Reduce speed to low and slowly mix in vanilla or nocino and eggs. Mix in apple butter. Add dry ingredients to wet and mix until just combined.

Pour batter into pans, smoothing it gently with a spatula. Transfer cake pans to oven and bake 30-45 minutes, until the tops are just dry to the touch and a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.

When cake is done, let it cool in the pans for 10-15 minutes and then turn it out onto a rack. Let it cool completely—for 3-4 hours—before proceeding. You can then keep the cake in the refrigerator for several days, if you ensure that it is wrapped tightly.

To make frosting, whip butter and cream cheese until light and fluffy. Mix in milk, sugar, vanilla or nocino, and salt, and continue to whip. If frosting is too thick, add more milk.

Use a bread knife to cut any domed or uneven parts off the cakes to make them flat. Place one of the cakes on a platter, cut side up, and frost the top using an offset spatula. Spread the remaining 1 cup apple butter on top, then stack the second on the first, cut side down, and frost the top and sides of the cake. Press toasted walnuts into the cake’s sides. Let sit at least 1 hour before serving.

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